City guide: 48-hours in Madrid
A pause from the everyday, my short stay in the capital city presented itself to me as a much-needed moment for respite; an opportunity to recharge. Unbeknown to me that a retreat to sunnier climes would have me feeling my most creative and inspired in a long time.
I soon discovered that the best way to explore the vibrant barrios of Madrid was on foot, traipsing around the tourist hot-spots and lesser known backstreets, with afternoons spent ducking in and out of boutique stores and bespoke bakeries, like Celiciouso, specializers of gluten-free goods, or poolside, lounging around on the rooftop terraces of Hotel Óscar.
A city of great contrasts, rich in culture, heritage, and bitesize cuisine, it can often be overlooked by tourists and travellers in favour of the more popular hustle and bustle of Barcelona. But, as we embrace the slowdown here at Yolklore, I’m going to make the case for Madrid, not merely for its chilled out vibes and unassuming allure, but as a place where, if you scratch beneath the surface, you’ll find a lot more than you bargained for.
The early bird catches the worm
For the morning larks, the best time to see the city is as the sun slowly awakens from its slumber. My first morning jaunt led me to the Caixa Forum and the adjacent vertical garden, a lush oasis of flourishing flora and fauna and home to over 250 species of plant. Designed by Patrick Blanc and located just a stones’ throw from the Prado museum in the city’s cultural quarter, the living garden offers both beauty and relief in the heart of the city. A quick nosy around the corner landed me upon La Fabrica, a multidisciplinary concept space offering a great display of books, photography and alternative gifts.
For mid-morning pick me up I headed to Calle de Attocha for a caffeine fix from Luso Coffee, a hole in the wall concept offering delicious pastel de natas and service with a smile. By late morning I found myself in the Cortes district, a hub of artistic and creative activity, the pavements beneath etched with the words of residents and poets. Window shopping, which is an experience in its own right - with store fronts as beautiful as the contents of the shop itself - I found myself falling more in love with the city as the hours passed by.
Navigation skills admittedly not always my forte, I somehow managed to stumble upon the Latina quarter (in the opposite direction) and by chance came across one of my best finds of the trip, El imparcial, a restaurant and lifestyle shop collided. A magazine lovers dream, shelves were packed full of the latest titles from the indie publishing scene; a treat for the writer within, but perhaps not as good for the bank balance.
“if you scratch beneath the surface, you’ll find a lot more than you bargained for.”
When in Madrid
Eat like the Spanish do. A city of undisputed gastronomic pedigree, our trip was punctuated by a number of midday excursions to the local food market, Mercado de San Miguel. The formidable ironwork structure dating back at least a century, houses some of the best food in Madrid. From mozzarella stalls, to purveyors of delectable squid sandwiches, in beautiful and atmospheric surroundings mapped out by counter bars and banquet-style tables, you can easily spend the afternoon putting the world to rights and washing down the pintxos, jamon and cheese, with a glass of Asturian cider or crisp glass of rose.
For a change of scenery we ventured to the picturesque surroundings of Retiro Park, a space for quiet contemplation, rowing boats on the lake and exploration of the beautiful Palacio de Cristal - an architectural masterpiece hidden away amongst the trees. To escape the hotter days we retreated to Hotel Oscar for its rooftop pool and stunning views of the golden hues of the city below.
Before heading out into the night, we grabbed an aperitivo from Mercado de Anton Martin’s Bun & Bones, the Asian fusion street food bar and restaurant and perched ourselves streetside, engaging in the art of people watching. A few stops on the metro to Tribunal, deep in the Malasaña barrio, with a strong avant-garde feeling, the neighbourhood was brimming with bars and restaurants stretching out as far as they eye could see, as people spilled out onto the streets enjoying the lingering warmth of the summer evening.
Wanting to feel the sand between our toes we headed to Ojala bar , where beach vibes and contemporary dining meet. Upstairs hanging baskets swept across the pastel coloured walls, as we nibbled on Iberian ham, arugula, quinoa tabouli and rustic bread, later retiring to the beach below, where white sands, tiki bar stalls and mellow beats transported away from the urban metropolis.
Feeling nostalgic we moved on to Lolina, a vintage cafe and sipped on espresso martinis and clashed with the 1960s inspired interiors and furnishings. The night ended, or started depending on your take on salsa dancing at Azucar bar, a truly cultural experience, where my supposed dancefloor knowledge drawn only from watching Strictly Come Dancing became wholly irrelevant. As couples swapped and changed with every dance, we were put through our paces before retiring to the sidelines to watch in awe as locals danced the night away to salsa cubana.
Madrid, a city of many wonders, the home of culinary connoisseurs, a place for the culture seekers, the best space for wanderers to roam free.
Wriiten for Yolklore
Photography: © Jenna Campbell
