Feature: The Bradley Hare, Maiden Bradley
Designer James Thurstan Waterworth joins forces with hospitality entrepreneur Andrew Kelly to create a country inn that blends old with new, writes Jenna Campbell.
When the bells of All Saints’ Church in the village of Maiden Bradley fall silent for the evening, the bellringers head straight to The Bradley Hare, such has the 12-key hotel and restaurant ingratiated itself into the tight-knit community.
Created for both locals and visitor alike, The Bradley Hare – formerly The Somerset Arms – is a design-led retreat featuring elegantly appointed rooms (seven in the main house and a further five in the adjacent Coach House), a traditional pub-style dining area, an intimate private dining space named Skittle Alley and, uniquely for a country inn, The Potting Shed – a boutique spa nestled in the walled gardens that form part of the historic grounds of the Duchy of Somerset’s estate.
The project was born out of a collaboration of minds; in conjunction with the Duchy of Somerset’s estate, James Thurstan Waterworth, previously European Design Director for Soho House, joined forces with hospitality entrepreneur Andrew Kelly to create a welcoming country inn that is at the heart of the village and the community. “James and I have been friends for a long time and I have always wanted to do a project with him,” reflects Kelly. “This one came together from a wonderful weekend spent with Sebastian [Lord Seymour] in Maiden Bradley, where I asked about the then Somerset Arms. Sebastian mentioned his desire to bring it back in hand and I demanded the opportunity to do this with him. On my return to London, I was having a pint with James and he immediately insisted that he be responsible for the design and so The Bradley Hare was born.”
The traditional building of Victorian heritage and Georgian proportions takes its name from the priory for maidens founded in the 12th century and has been designed by Thurstan to unite the history of the pub with contemporary details to create a warm and homely space. “It had a natural energy and we wanted to create an environment that is comfortable for locals and hotel guests but also practical enough for wellies and dogs,” reflects Thurstan Waterworth.
Welcoming guests through manicured gardens and into the traditional pub space – characterised by antique chairs and tables set around a main bar – the room then flows through to a casual lounge-style seating and dining area, aptly named the snug. “We wanted the F&B areas to feel incredibly familiar to guests coming in,” notes Thurstan Waterworth, who has personally sourced many of the antique furnishings and traditionally framed artwork to balance the heritage of the building with a contemporary vision. “There was a lot of work in the design process, but by using comfortable antique chairs and old dining tables and by opening up the fireplaces whilst using warm tones and the occasional pop of colour in fabrics, it creates a warm and welcoming environment.”
Larger gatherings are catered for in Skittle Alley, the private dining venue that features reclaimed Victorian pine flooring to match that of the pub and uses a colour scheme and furniture that can be easily interchanged. “The inspiration behind it was to recreate the original Skittle Alley, which was located in what is now the Coach House, so it was important to practically incorporate the size of that,” explains Thurstan Waterworth.
The humble magic of The Bradley Hare extends into the surrounding community and its commitment to local sourcing, from the custom-made signage produced by a neighbouring craftsman to the culinary experience, guided by a zero-waste philosophy, characterised by local and seasonal ingredients. At all possible junctures the boutique bolthole seeks to root itself firmly in the locale.
Serving up pub classics with contemporary flair as well as a more refined à la carte offering, menus are ever-changing, adapting to the seasons and the availability of produce from nearby greengrocers, fishmongers, butchers and even its own game dealer. Seasonal starters range from corn ribs with chipotle aioli and lime to burrata, with Isle of Wight tomato, nectarine and basil, to simple plates of saucisson with rocket and pickles. Though constantly evolving, guests can also expect comforting mains ranging from beef burger with Ogleshield cheese – Somerset’s equivalent to raclette – to carrot schnitzel with sunflower seed hummus, accompanied by sides of like crispy potatoes topped with truffle and Berkswell cheese.
Some of the kitchen’s vegetables, herbs and botanicals are also sourced from the village’s community garden, located just a short walk from the hotel. “Sustainability is incredibly important. If we are to reduce our ever-spiralling impact on our planet then we must reduce wasteful consumption and close the loop” says Kelly. “I strongly believe that if the restaurant industry can set an example and show that it is possible to live well without destroying our habitat, the majority of consumers will not be far behind.”
Furthering the hotel’s culinary ethos, the drinks offering features a variety of local brews including Butcombe Brewery and The Wild Beer Company, as well as eclectic wines and creative cocktails that incorporate ingredients from the Maiden Bradley allotment, and come breakfast, fresh juices and hot beverages made from a La Marzocco coffee machine.
Resisting the allure of passing trends, The Bradley Hare has been designed to stand the test of time – readily welcoming guests to share in the carefully designed space and locally driven culinary experience. “I don’t think we are re-inventing anything,” concludes Kelly. “We are just trying to deliver food and service that we strongly believe in, in a beautiful part of the country with some exceptional ingredients right on our doorstep.”
The husband-and-wife duo behind Jöro expand with a food-focused hotel complete with chef’s table and calendar of culinary collaborations, writes Jenna Campbell.
Sheffield is not perhaps best known for its destination dining, but in the up-and-coming neighbourhood of Kelham Island, change is afoot thanks in no small part to chef Luke French, the man behind Jöro – Sheffield’s first Michelin Bib restaurant.
With his maverick flavour combinations, creative use of ingredients and commitment to sustainability, French has quickly made his mark on the North of England’s culinary landscape. Together with his wife and business partner Stacey Sherwood-French, he has successfully launched a string of celebrated food concepts across the region, debuting with Jöro in December 2016; followed by Konjö, a street food concept with sites in Sheffield’s Cutlery Works and Liverpool’s Metquarter; and Nama, an Izakaya-inspired kitchen counter in Liverpool’s recently opened GPO Food Hall.
But it is Jöro where French’s culinary ethos of combining local produce, classic training and ancient cooking techniques is best exemplified, with menus offering a fusion of Asian and Nordic flavours. Naturally, when the opportunity to expand their portfolio arose, the couple looked to the flagship, resulting in the creation of House of Jöro – a boutique hotel featuring four bedrooms and a 10-seater chef’s table. “The opportunity came through David Cross, who designed and owns the Krynkl building where Jöro is located,” explains French. “We were starting to see people travelling from across the country to dine with us and thought it would be great to have our guests enjoy a full 24-hour Jöro experience.”
Located a stone’s throw from the restaurant, the gastro-hotel offers visitors a food-driven escape, with the option to dine in the restaurant and stay the night or hire out the entire space. With architecture by David Cross’ firm Coda Studios and interiors by Stacey Sherwood-French, the Scandi-inspired space is a natural continuation of the Jöro brand. “The entire concept is a product of our own personal preference to dining out and overnight stays, so both the culinary concept and property design are as one,” says Sherwood-French. “We are drawn to the relaxing, acute attention-to-detail and minimalistic approach of both Nordic and Japanese cultures – simplistic design, natural and stylish.”
Bedrooms, two of which feature freestanding bathtubs, have been carefully considered to create a calming ambience with dove-grey walls, statement lighting and plenty of biophilic details. On arrival, a chilled bottle of Nyetimber’s Classic Cuvee and a plate of delicately made Bullion fine milk chocolate with yuzu cream petits fours await guests and sets the tone for things to come.
Opening onto the central shared living space, a private’s chef’s table – which doubles as the breakfast area – and sleek kitchen space featuring polished metal counters and black fixtures mirrors the flagship restaurant’s minimal style, while the addition of a flame-effect fire, contemporary prints nodding to Sheffield’s lively music scene and a selection of coffee table books, creates a home-away-from-home ambiance. “Our communal kitchen and living area are the first things guests see when they arrive and we wanted people to feel welcomed into our home,” reflects Sherwood-French. “The colours we used in the kitchen and on some of our walls match with the restaurant and focus on shades of grey, a subtle nod to the steel city. Our curtains, in particular the green ones in the living area, are matched to the signage on the Grade II*-listed building in front of the hotel.”
With French and a roster of industry heavyweights on the stoves, guests can expect an intimate and carefully curated chef’s table experience unlike anything seen in the city. “There is nothing like this currently, only the option to invite a private chef into your own home,” says French. “Many of our friends are well-regarded chefs and will be coming to play with us here at House of Jöro to provide some very special culinary experiences.”
An extension of Jöro’s ethos, French wanted the menus offered at the chef’s table to incorporate new dishes, opportunities for testing and some re-worked favourites that return each season. “Guest can expect local wagyu beef and Mangalitza pork, exceptional Scottish shellfish and much more,” he explains. “We will focus very seasonally as always but continue to strive to find new and exciting produce at the very top if it’s game.”
A short walk to Jöro, where the soft, Scandic interiors, though carefully curated – think timber floors and tables set against black walls, Oliver Harvey uniforms and shelves stocked with jars of homebrewed knotweed vodka and a summer edition of the restaurant’s own natural gin – take a backseat, allowing French’s famed tasting menus to take centre stage. Housing 12 tables, many looking on to the open kitchen where dishes combining Nordic and Asian flavours and inspirations are prepared, diners can expect a modern and fresh take on fine dining.
At the core of French’s culinary philosophy is a commitment to sustainability, a theme reflected in his dishes. “It’s a huge focus for us, so we work only with like-minded farmers, producers and fishermen and women who share the same ethos,” notes French. “We also operate a no-waste policy, which means where possible we will use every part of the produce – whether that be on the bar or through preservation and fermentation. We are currently looking into composting too.”
From Chawanmushi (steamed egg custard) with smoked eel and pancetta, to savoury porridge of spelt with comté and onions with chicken fat dressing, and Anjou pigeon cooked over fire and accompanied by fermented blackcurrant and smoked beetroots, the variety of dishes at Jöro demonstrate the diversity of ingredients and time-honed cooking techniques at play. Ending on a sweet note, desserts such as kombu (seaweed) ice-cream, which provides a taste reminiscent of burnt caramel and woodruff with whipped casa luker white chocolate with raspberry, accompanied by Amefa Stonewash cutlery, seals the deal on what can only be described as an expertly crafted dining experience.
Equally intriguing, the drinks offering, which ranges from biodynamic wines and seasonal cocktails served in Nude glassware, to low- and no-options, complements the kitchen’s produce. “The drinks menu is always tailored to suit the food and the guest, very carefully sourced by our sommelier Tom, our restaurant team and ourselves,” says French. We are currently working on expanding our low- and no-alcohol selections including pairings for tasting menus, as well as offering non-stereotypical options including our listed ciders, sakes and natural wines.”
For overnight guests, the culinary journey comes to a triumphant close at breakfast with freshly-baked croissants, smoked salmon, Lishman’s cured meats and a hearty wedge of Baron Bigod, served in the communal area or delivered in hamper for those who like to sleep in a little longer. Offering a foodie staycation in the steel city’s industrial heart, the latest string in the bow of Luke and Stacey’s hospitality portfolio not only builds on the success of the couple’s flagship but bolsters the growing assertion that Sheffield and its flourishing food and drink scene is one-to-watch.
Written for Supper Magazine
Feature image: © Courtesy of Martin Morrell
