Meet the artisans: In conversation with Katy Saide, co-founder of Trove
Made from scratch
Trove:
Noun
(1) A store of valuable or delightful things
(2) Discovery, Find
As a writer I often whittle away the days frequenting coffee shops, willfully assuming the role of bystander, privy to the many exchanges of human interaction. The lifeblood of cafe culture, secretly hopeful that a conversation between friends will stoke something akin to inspiration or, at the very least provide a welcome distraction.
The habits I keep have led me to seek out writing environments in an almost goldilocks fashion so, as you can imagine finding just the right spot can be quite the challenge. Given my extensive snag list It was rather fortuitous to discover late last year that Trove, the vanguard of Levnehsulme’s cafe culture scene, was about to set up shop in the heart of Ancoats.
A regular haunt of mine, the Cutting Room Square location is alluring for those wanting to fly below the radar, to revel in anonymity and yet feel part of something collective and communal. There are no pretences with Trove, the assured, but never arrogant atmosphere of the bakery and cafe is infectious.
Katy Saide, one third of the Trove’s founding team, embodies this levelled, considered and relaxed approach, an impressive feat for someone who sits at the helm of one of Manchester’s most exciting food and drink ventures. While she now occupies a predominantly back-of-house role, her wisdom, style and passion is everywhere to be seen. From the minimalist interiors to the fika-inspired atmosphere, it is clear that Katy’s presence can be felt throughout, imbuing the next wave of artisans with the confidence to see through their original mission; organic produce made from scratch, with community front and centre.
Throughout Trove’s journey from the stalls of Levenshulme market selling homemade jams and chutneys, to the inheritance of one rather decrepit coffee machine, to the bricks and mortar expansion and city-centre accession, community has been at the heart of what they do, earning them great love and affection from the suburbs of M19 to the former cotton mills turned apartments of Ancoats.
Perhaps it is a testament to the wholesome manner in which Trove goes about its business that makes it so appealing. Virtually all of their fresh produce is made by hand. From the hugely-popular sourdough bread which draws in punters from across the city, to the seasonal jams and curds, the bakery prides itself on making whatever it can from scratch, sourcing it locally and using only the best ingredients.
Reflecting the unassuming spirit and warmth of their home city, Katy attributes their success to the way in which they conduct themselves, “were not trying to be anyone else,” she professes.
The allure of Trove is much the same as the city it inhabits, it is unapologetically itself, personifying the inherently hardworking and rebellious spirit of Manchester. Having both grown up in South Manchester Katy and her husband Markus, are well-placed to comment on the evolution of Levenshulme, where they first set up shop back in 2011.
As Saide notes, unlike the surrounding suburbs of West Didsbury and Chorlton, there has been a much slower pace of gentrification throughout the M19 postcode enabling it to retain its status as a hidden gem, while also paving the way for the next generation of entrepreneurs and 21st century shopkeepers. In the past few years, Levenshulme has seen a string of new and exciting independent businesses, cafes and bars flock to its highstreet, from Station Hop to Nordie and has naturally welcomed these newcomers with open arms, in the same way that Trove was when it opened its doors eight years ago.
With time and experience on their side, Trove, the “fresh food rebels” are all about collaboration and lending a hand, a way of repaying those who helped them when they first launched the concept. In the early days of selling their wares, fellow shopkeepers, such as Oklahoma and 8th Day Cooperative would save jam jars for them, so it makes sense that they should want to continue to foster and strengthen this community spirit.
Beyond their role in supplying numerous cafes and shops across the region with their infamous bakes, Trove continues to host a number of supper clubs which champion fellow independents, creators and makers. For Saide there is a real beauty in an open-minded and supportive community and Trove’s outlets exemplify this straightforward and collaborative way of doing things.
The same can be said for the way that Trove looks after its own, which is apparent in the way that Saide rather humbly reels off a list of all those who have had a hand in the continued success of the business. From Will, their barista who completely changed their coffee offering, to Isabelle Jenkins who elevated their food concept, taking it to the next level and many more behind the scenes, the founder is clearly very proud and grateful to all of the individuals who have made Trove the local treasure that it is.
Handing over the reigns in this way has also given Katy the creative space to pursue ventures outside of Trove, such as assisting small independents with their branding, curating exhibitions with like-minded businesses and honing her photography skills, not to mention a well-deserved break with Slow Escapes. When she’s not working, she will often pay a visit to some of her Manchester and Leeds foodie neighbours.
From Idle Hands, to Ox Club, Laynes Coffee and Sugo, supporting brands and businesses that, much like Trove, do good for the community and give credence to the notion that we will continue to be a proud and community-minded nation of Shopkeepers, is at the heart fo side’s mission.
Make sure to stop off at Trove for:
Levenshulme: Homemade croissant loaf, British strawberries, mascarpone, basil seed & lemon crumble, basil and honey.
Ancoats: Asparagus, poached eggs, broad bean hummus and za’atar on toasted sourdough
Written for Yolklore
Photography: © Unsplash
